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Japan. Michael, welcome to Japan, a
railway paradise.

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Its huge population spread over long
islands lived by its railways. It's like

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I'm driving.

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My new adventure takes me through the
land that launched the high -speed

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I love Shinkansen.

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Where millions of journeys are made each
day through some of the most bustling

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stations on Earth.

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Busy city.

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I'll ride Japan's vast railway network.

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To uncover a land of bold innovation.

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Haven't quite got the hang of it yet.

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A place of enduring tradition, volatile
geology and remarkable people. Join

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me on an excursion like no other. I'm
too excited to sit down.

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My excursion continues on Kyushu, the
most southerly and westerly of Japan's

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main islands.

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Japan is one of the world's greatest
manufacturing economies, and yet it

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out entirely on the industrial
revolution that transformed the West

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mid -18th and mid -19th centuries.

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I will travel on Kyushu Island's newest
Shinkansen railway to the port of

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Nagasaki.

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one of two cities destroyed by an atom
bomb, to hear how a Scottish trader, one

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of the foreigners excluded by Japan,
played an important role in its

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industrialization and political change.

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Visiting Japan opens my European eyes to
a distant country with a wholly

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different culture and view of life.

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In planning my journey across Kyushu
Island, I had a choice of over 20 rail

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lines. and more than 500 stations.

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Having begun in Kagoshima in the south,
I'm travelling along the west of the

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island, whose history has been shaped by
being closest to foreign influences.

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Later I'll reach the largest island,
Honshu, and arrive in Hiroshima.

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This morning I begin with a nine -mile
hop on a local commuter train.

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Safety depends on procedures that are
rigorously followed. In Japan, a train

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driver acknowledges his every thought
and action with a point of the finger.

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That emphasizes that he is constantly
following procedure to the letter.

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From the station at Chikugo, I make my
way a few miles east to the agricultural

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city of Yame.

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In the mountainous southern Fukuoka
region on the Yabe River, with a

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of 38 ,000, it's famous across Japan for
its production of tea, one of the

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nation's favourite drinks.

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In Britain, We invest tea with
extraordinary recuperative properties.

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After any slight misfortune, a friend
will recommend that we have a nice cuppa

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to make us feel better. But it's served
entirely without ceremony.

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In Japan, tea occupies entirely a
different position. It has evolved over

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centuries from being the exclusive
preserve of the privileged.

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It is held in respect.

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and its serving is accompanied by a
complex ritual.

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I approach the subject with due
deference.

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I'm in the tea capital of Kyushu.

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There are about 15 ,000 growers in the
Yame area.

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This tea factory, run by the Oishi
family, opened in 1940.

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Pierrick Groselin, who's French, is the
sales director.

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Hello, Pierrick.

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Oh, hello.

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What a pleasure to see you. Welcome in
Yamé.

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So you're picking the leaves today? Yes,
you're right at the time of the new

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harvest. Would you mind helping a little
bit, removing this?

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What, a roller's pack?

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Rolling it away, slowly, delicately.

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You have been shedding them for two
weeks, making the leaves greener,

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a superior quality.

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The leaves under here look absolutely
superb.

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Which leaves make the best tea?

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It would be just the very top bud and
the two following leaves, taken like

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making the best tea of all kind.

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We associate tea with both China and
Japan.

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When did it arrive in Japan?

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The very first seed arrived like 800
years ago through the island of Kyushu,

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through the port of Hirado, which is a
little bit north of Nagasaki, and then

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after, traveled up.

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to the emperor in Kyoto.

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Did the Japanese make tea in the same
way as the Chinese?

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It would be slightly different, since
instead of firing it, we are steaming

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keeping the tea green, and that's why
Japanese green tea is famous worldwide.

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What happens at a tea ceremony?

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Usually, this is a gathering of guests
with a tea master.

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It's a combination of tradition.

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and like spirituality in order to enjoy
tea in a relaxing atmosphere.

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What is it about the climate here that
makes it so good for tea growing?

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Making good tea is about having a good
soil.

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We had like a very active volcano called
Asosan just nearby here, making the

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soil rich.

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In the mountain area of Yame, you have
also like a natural mist, fog covering

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every morning.

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making it a natural shading, making the
tea leaves greener, softer, more

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delicious.

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I've heard of different sorts of green
tea. For which one is Yame famous?

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The most renowned, the best green tea in
all Japan.

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Traditional, authentic Yame Gyokuro,
harvested.

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By hand, which is the GI, geographical
indication register, in the same list

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for example, the beef from Kobe.

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Yeah, yeah, yeah.

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And so that is a premium tea. That would
be very expensive.

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How much would you pay for that?

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It could be priced between, like, 400
and 500 pounds a kilo.

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Ooh, that is very, very special indeed.

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A good Bordeaux would be cheaper.

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A good Bordeaux or a bottle of
champagne, too?

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The award -winning factory blends green
tea from its own fields and from other

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local farms.

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Loose leaf and powdered varieties are
processed, including Sencha and Matcha.

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Thierry, we're surrounded by this
magnificent aroma of green tea.

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We have a lot of machinery here.

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What goes on? What is the process?

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So, the main purpose of this factory
will be about...

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to refine the tea, meaning sorting the
different type of tea and also drying

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decreasing the level of moisture or
increasing the level of umami flavor in

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Umami. Interesting word. It's coming
from Japan, but they use it all around

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world now.

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It's pretty noisy in here, but what do
we start with?

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The big blender.

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Blending for 20 minutes.

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Sorting. The big leaves from the small
leaves. Small leaves go on a different

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line. And what happens there?

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So here would be about color sorting.

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You have the green leaves, but also the
white stem.

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So this machine, using air pressure, for
removing the white stem from the green

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leaves. Can you use the stems?

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Definitely, yeah. It would be a
different tea called cookie chop, the

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After, going to these two machines,
which would be the dryers.

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Then moving to this one, which would be
air sorting.

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Removing the very small leaves, small
particles, mainly used in the tea bags

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sold in the supermarket, for example.

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So you do every kind of tea here,
really? From the best to the most basic?

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Exactly.

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Japan's green tea industry is worth over
£3 billion, with around 70 ,000 tonnes

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consumed here each year.

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It's said to contain a host of health
benefits, and sales across the world

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increased dramatically over the last
decade.

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In the factory tea room, I'm invited to
taste the company's matcha, Japanese for

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powdered tea, with the owner's son,
Executive Director Kenichi Oishi.

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Oishi -san.

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Hello, I'm Michael.

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Thank you. What a pleasure.

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Thank you.

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This is your family's business, isn't
it?

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Yes. How many generations?

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Fourth generation.

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You're the fourth generation.

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Pierrick prepares our tea, mixing the
bright green matcha powder with boiling

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water, using a traditional bamboo whisk
known as a chasen to create a foam.

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Moving naturally.

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From the left to the right.

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And then gathering from the side to the
middle.

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And here it is.

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Yamemachi.

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That is a splendid tea. It's full of
deliciousness and fragrance.

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Wonderful tea. Thank you very much.

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Around 35 miles west, at the hot springs
resort of Takeo Onsen, I'm bound for

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the port city of Nagasaki on Japan's
superfast Shinkansen bullet train.

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As a rail explorer in Japan, you can
record your route by collecting eki, or

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station stamps, each with a unique
design.

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They were introduced in the 1930s to
encourage travel.

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and you can build up a great souvenir.

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Kyushu Island is extraordinarily well
served by Japanese railways. Here's a

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of the network.

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Every sort of train.

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Shinkansen, diesel, electric, standard
gauge and narrow gauge.

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And the train spotter is well catered
for.

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you can look out for all these different
models.

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I just saw the luxurious tourist train,
the 36 plus 3, and here is the Komome.

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It means seagull, and it's one of the
newest variants of the Shinkansen.

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I'm on Kyushu's latest Shinkansen line,
opened in 2022.

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and its trains travel at an impressive
260 kilometres per hour.

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The Komomo trains are fresh and modern.
There's much better signage than before.

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There's more legroom. We have these
beautiful woods.

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People say there's no need for first
class, because even in economy, you're

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getting the top experience.

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How magnificent!

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This new station is a wonderful gateway
to the Bay of Nagasaki, city of history

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and of legend.

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On Kyushu's west coast, Nagasaki lies on
a deep, narrow harbour at the mouth of

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the Urukami River, surrounded by steep
hills.

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During the Second World War, on August
9, 1945,

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it was devastated when the United States
dropped an atomic bomb.

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Up to 70 ,000 people lost their lives
and around a third of its buildings were

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destroyed.

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Over the following decade, it was
rebuilt.

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and today the thriving port city has
over 400 ,000 residents.

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To appreciate the topography, I board a
cable car from just west of the city

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centre to rise more than a thousand feet
to the top of Mount Inasa.

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Nagasaki is to me surprisingly glamorous
for a major port and an industrial hub.

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The same beautiful mountains rising
deeply from the water's edge that

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the inlet make it a picture postcard.

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Arigatou.

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Portuguese merchants came here in the
mid -16th century.

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They established it as a trading port in
1571, and the city grew around it.

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Because of the mountains soaring above
the high -rise buildings, I find it just

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about possible to think what Nagasaki
was like centuries ago, maybe when the

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Portuguese first arrived.

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You can see how attractive they would
have found it.

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Almost 300 years later, in 1859, Thomas
Blake Glover, an enterprising young Scot

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from Aberdeen, disembarked here.

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Then, in his early 20s, he would become
one of Japan's most famous foreigners.

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Across the bay, his former house is now
a popular museum.

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I'll explore his remarkable story and
the trading history of this city with

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author and historian Brian Burke
Gaffney.

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Brian, I am thrilled to be in Nagasaki.
I'm just stunned by its topography.

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It's the first time for me here, but it
strikes me as one of the world's great

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ports. It really is one of the most
beautiful, and it's deep in the middle,

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surrounded by mountains, and so
protected on all sides. So right from

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Portuguese period, Nagasaki has been
chosen as an ideal port of call by

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ships. While I've been in Japan, I've
learned that it was closed to the

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world for two and a half centuries, with
a bit of an exception at Nagasaki.

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What was the exception?

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Well, the shogunate took a very harsh
attitude towards Christianity, and the

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Portuguese were dismissed from Japan.

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But they wanted to continue the trade.

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under their control.

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And so they allowed the Chinese and the
Dutch, who were Protestant rather than

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Catholic, to continue a modicum of trade
for more than two centuries.

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Nagasaki was literally the only
officially open port in Japan.

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When Japan eventually bowed to pressure
from Western countries and opened up to

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foreign trade in the mid -19th century,
Nagasaki flourished further.

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At 23, Thomas Glover set up his first
business here.

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He went on to play a key role in the
country's industrial revolution.

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In 1863, he built this villa on the
city's Minami Yamate hillside

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overlooking the harbour.

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Well, Thomas Glover certainly knew how
to pick a view, didn't he? What a

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splendid house. Lovely, isn't it?

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It's superb.

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What would have attracted this young,
very young Abedonian to come to

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I think he saw in Nagasaki great
opportunities and also the relationships

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he established here with Japanese
samurai at the time convinced him that

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Nagasaki was the place to be.

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These young samurai went on to be the
leaders of Japanese politics and

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industry. Now, how did he pull that off?
How did he develop these relationships

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with the samurai?

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He spoke Japanese.

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And so it's obvious that he took
interest towards Japanese culture and

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just his Scottish charm. He was more
successful than many other of the

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and American merchants who were coming
to Nagasaki.

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What businesses did he get into?

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Thomas Glover started, like other
merchants, importing fabrics from India

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from China and exporting Japanese
agricultural products, etc. But

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saw the potential for coal mining, so he
developed the Takashima coal mine,

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which in fact you can almost see from
his house here. Then he built a ship

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repair dock close to Nagasaki.

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He used engines and boilers to bring
ships. up on a slip dock. So this was

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really the beginning of the modern
shipbuilding industry.

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And the list just goes on and on. Please
tell me that he had a connection with

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the railways. He did have a connection
with the railways. In 1865, Thomas

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brought a miniature locomotive to
Nagasaki and did a demonstration and ran

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along the waterfront. And this would
have been the first time for Japanese

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people to understand the huge
possibilities of steam locomotion.

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In 1908, Glover was the first foreigner
to be awarded Japan's highest civilian

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honour, the Order of the Rising Sun, for
his contribution to the country's

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industrialisation. He died three years
later, aged 73, and was buried here in

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Nagasaki.

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Quite close to where Thomas Glover had
established a ship repair facility,

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Mitsubishi established an enormous
shipbuilding yard.

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Glasgow had once been shipbuilder to the
world. The title passed eventually to

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Japan with a little help from an
Aberdonian.

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Amongst Thomas Glover's significant
legacies was the Takashima coal mine,

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intriguingly is accessed by boat.

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I'm travelling 11 miles south to the
extraordinary island of Hashima in the

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China Sea.

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Being on this boat enables me to
appreciate the vastness of the inlet at

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Nagasaki, its shipyards, its ship
repair, its industries, its urban

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thrall, a massive city facing the
outside world.

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My trip promises a glimpse into the
early days of this country's economic

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success.

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Japan has produced some coal for
centuries, but its industrialisation

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high -grade product that could be
extracted in vast quantities.

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And it was found under the sea bed and
could be accessed with some difficulty

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from the offshore islands of Takashima,
where Glover invested, and Hashima,

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to which I'm bound now.

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The island...

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that covers just 16 acres, was abandoned
in 1974 when its coal reserves ran out.

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It's been preserved as a part of Japan's
industrial heritage, an intriguing

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sight for visitors.

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My first impression of Hashima is that
it's a rather forbidding place.

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Amongst all this natural beauty, the
incongruous high -rise buildings

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that humanity was crammed together here.

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to meet the needs of Japanese
manufacturing.

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Thank you.

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In 1890, Hashima was bought by the
Japanese Mitsubishi Commercial Company.

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Founded as a shipping company, it soon
diversified into mining to provide coal

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for its fleet of steamships and for
steel production.

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Initially, Japanese miners settled on
the island with their families.

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From 1910 to 1945, forced labour was
brought from Korea, which was

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occupied by Japan.

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Hashima is one of a number of sites
connected to Japan's industrialisation

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has been granted by UNESCO World
Heritage Status.

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This has caused controversy.

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because the Republic of Korea is not
satisfied with Japan's explanation of

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use of enforced labour in horrendous
conditions in the mine.

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The first half of the 20th century casts
a very long shadow.

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The mine reached its peak during the
post -war period. In the late 1950s,

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isolated mining community had grown to
over 5 ,000 people.

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00:23:11,730 --> 00:23:15,750
Minoru Kinoshita was born on the island
and now worked as a guide.

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00:23:16,090 --> 00:23:18,950
This is one of the most extraordinary
places I've ever been.

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00:23:19,630 --> 00:23:21,270
Describe to me what this was.

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00:23:51,710 --> 00:23:56,410
Having gone down 606 meters, you then go
out under the seabed. Is that right?

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What sort of coal is under there?

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This coal is used to make iron.

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The temperature

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is over 35 degrees Celsius and the
humidity is

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00:24:46,870 --> 00:24:53,050
95%. So I worked in a sauna for 8

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hours.

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Across 84 years, this mine produced more
than 16 million tonnes of coal from

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under the sea.

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00:25:04,540 --> 00:25:10,400
Slag was used to reclaim land, making
space for apartment blocks, a school, a

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00:25:10,400 --> 00:25:12,520
hospital and even a cinema.

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00:25:13,140 --> 00:25:16,500
High sea walls were built to protect the
island's coastline.

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00:25:17,280 --> 00:25:23,000
Minoru lived with his parents and sister
here until he was 12, and I'm surprised

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00:25:23,000 --> 00:25:25,320
that he has fond memories of his
childhood.

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00:25:26,480 --> 00:25:29,780
What an astonishing place. What a huge
ruin.

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00:25:41,060 --> 00:25:44,180
Why were you born here? Why were you
living here?

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00:26:14,630 --> 00:26:21,030
Your dad didn't like his job, but you
seem quite happy about your childhood

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00:26:21,030 --> 00:26:22,030
memories.

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You have been a wonderful guide. Thank
you.

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On this part of my journey, I've seen
contrast between the sparsely populated

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00:27:04,820 --> 00:27:10,460
countryside, where tea grows in
picturesque plantations, and the

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of people and manpower required to
produce high -volume coal.

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00:27:15,440 --> 00:27:21,480
It's striking that Japan, that
industrialised so late, is still a

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power in contrast to Britain.

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00:27:24,880 --> 00:27:28,480
Japan brings precision to everything
that it does.

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including the making of a cup of tea.

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00:27:31,910 --> 00:27:36,750
And perhaps for that reason, it is still
a fabricator to the world.

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00:27:37,510 --> 00:27:40,990
Next time, with cobalt in it, will it
always be blue?

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00:27:41,590 --> 00:27:42,590
Yes.

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00:27:42,950 --> 00:27:46,490
We have 300 kinds of blue.

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00:27:49,210 --> 00:27:52,050
Changing the entire country is tough.

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00:27:52,870 --> 00:27:56,150
But as mayor, you can change a city.

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This answer is delightful.

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00:28:01,880 --> 00:28:05,260
You sense that you will emerge a new
man.

